The vinyl shrank.
If one end is aligned, the other side is an inch too short.
Gonna see if I can find some material locally. Sniff, would have liked to reuse the original one
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The vinyl shrank.
If one end is aligned, the other side is an inch too short.
Gonna see if I can find some material locally. Sniff, would have liked to reuse the original one
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I got some headliner fabric from JoAnn. I thought it would be a ton better because it's a lot lighter than the original. But nope, it's drooping already.
Brad
'79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
'17 Ford Focus ST
'14 Ford Fusion SE Manual
Seems like that would be an adhesive issue then, not a material issue....
1985 Mustang GT (Mothballed...Desired restomod parts acquired...Top of my project list for my 2024 retirement!)
I always thought is was because of too many womens feet pushing on it?????
What do you advice, vinyl, or the suede material?
What looks and stays nice?
Thanks guys.
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The OEM vinyl headliners fail over time due to the adhesive losing it' grip or hold on the material. The heat cycles on the roof ultimately do it in.
The OEM fabric headliners with the foam backing fail over time as the fabric separates from the foam backing. That is why it is virtually impossible to repair them without issues.
In my experience 3M Super 90 spray adhesive works pretty well when replacing your headliner. I have had good luck with it over the years. I refuse to use the 3M 77 spray adhesive as that crap just doesn't work for any length of time. Other stuff such as DAP Lunda top adhesive works well too and is some awesome stuff if you can find it.
As for headliners any of the materials will work if quality materials. The foam backed cloth seems to be the easiest and hides imperfections thanks to the foam. Vinyl is often the original materials for many early Four Eyes and works well, but a bit less forgiving if you make a mistake. I personally am not a fan of suede on the headliner, so I have never used it. Love it on seats, not so much on the headliner, but your opinion may vary. Good Luck!
Trey
"I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"
"I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."
Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
Current Mustangs:
1969 Mach 1
1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently
Current Capris:
1981 Capri Roller
1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts
Trey,
Thanks for all the tips.
I didn't know of the cloth option.
I'll look it up.
There's a Joan company in the Netherlands too, never expected that.
Will show the end result.
Regards.
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Here is the way I do it. I've done several cars this way with good success.
The worst part is taking the headliner out. Trim panels usually pull off or need to have a screw removed before pulling.
Once out, turn it over and sand off the old foam backing and glue. Good luck trying to save the old liner as the glue and foam stuck to it will be near impossible to remove. I have had good luck getting material at fabric stores. They usually stock basic color foam backed material. I'm sure there is material to be found online as well.
Once you have the material, lay it on the headliner and do a rough trim. See where the material will pucker and further trimming will be needed.
Get a roll of wax paper and cut a bunch of pieces to cover the headliner in a radial pattern from the center or maybe the courtesy light opening. The whole thing needs to be covered with waxed paper.
1 can of 3M high temperature upholstery adhesive should be enough. With the waxed paper off the headliner (note where her pieces went) apply the 3M adhesive to the board. Lay the waxed paper on the board. Spray the back of the material and allow it to dry a bit.
Set the material on the waxed paper and align with the board. Make sure there are no wrinkles or puckers.
Now remove the waxed paper by pulling it straight out, smoothing the material to the board. Voila!
Final trim and reinstall.
W
As always, "It ain't what you don't know that gets you, it's what you think you know that just ain't so."
I used wood dowels. Plastic pipe prob would work too.
Did not know about wax paper. sounds easiest.
For sure glue one section at a time. No reset once glue touches material.
A wire drill brush got my board clean.
Waxed paper, is that the stuff the wife uses for baking?
I will give it a try.
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